Saturday, March 30, 2013

WORDS FROM CANADIANS


Every now and then I hear something that must be shared…from the CBC, CANADIAN ACTRESS KRISTIN LEHMAN in an interview with GEORGE STROUMBOULOPOULOS.
 

Context: they were discussing life in Canada…
Kristin said she had recently been asked the question;
“Are you ever called out for being a Canadian? Like have you ever given it away?

Her reply;
“I didn’t know I was hiding the fact that I’m Canadian. Canada is a country, a big, huge, beautiful, tremendous country. Why would we not say that we have a place in the world? It’s about presenting what we are right now in the world and maybe in the course of exploring that we can find some equanimity in presenting that.”

you can find the whole interview from March 28, CBC, GEORGE STROUMBOULOPOULOS,episode 126 @ http://www.cbc.ca/player/Shows/ID/2362951888/
THANKS to Kristin and George...

Friday, March 29, 2013

CANADIAN CONTENT: FASHION MAY 2013

FROM "FASHION" MAGAZINE MAY 2013

It's their "Annual-Age-Issue", that strange-thing-that-those-in-the-fashion-magazine-world-like-to-do in tribute-to-women-of-all-ages. They begin on page 67 with a shot of a sweet baby, chewing a "miu miu" stack-heel platform-sole sandal, followed by copious pages of cosmetics-to-keep-you-looking-young, a "go-ahead-and-age" article from actor/writer; Andrew McCarthy, which includes tiny shots of 5 actresses, who have allowed themselves to be shown aged-and-beautiful, and then, the now-aged-but-you didn't-look-like-her-then-and-you-sure-won't-now, model, 68, Donna Demarco*, playing Mrs Robinson, the artfully-airbrushed Winona Ryder, oh, and I-see-a-few-wrinkles but the-lighting-is-anything-but-natural shot of Anne Carson, and an article about performance-artist Marina Abramovic, looking nothing like she appears in real-life or in-performance. Yes, this small handful amidst almost 200 pages of if-they-are-they-barely-are, 20-somethings, an issue devoted to age...ah, the "real" vision of those-in-the-Magazine-world.

Right, I was looking for Canadian content. From the editorials:

A nod to Fashion-magazine's-go-to-CANADIAN-DESIGNER, ARTHUR MENDONCA, in the article with pics "GAMON- From slouchy Bermudas to sharp suits, shorts have made the leap from vacation wear to big city staple".
Arthur comments " I've always liked (them) as a skirt substitute..." Note to designer, careful on the "always", could bite you... page 51










COMRAGS gets a dress in an editorial spread on florals.
 page 72









Donna Demarco */ Mrs Robinson in a hint of a CHRISTINE LINGERIE slip. page 154












The "SHOPS" pages offer up:

from Montreal:
BODYBAG BY JUDE, and an interview with "unisex fashion designer" PEDRAM KARIMI. page 160












From Toronto:
An interview with Toronto handbag designer; SNEHA VARMA page 162

From Vancouver:
Vancouver Island's (its a very big island, with several cities, I wonder which one?) ELIZA FAULKNER, who gets a nice shot of a top-and-skirt-combo in, and Vancouver's BETH RICHARDS (way to go) gets interviewed on her Swimwear-collection-inspirations. page 168












Their finale page:
"PATRIOT LOVE"; which this month offers up LUCIAN MATIS and the story and pics of his Spring 2013 ochre-hued, crocodile-embossed cowhide pieces. Good one!





All that plus a pull-out catalogue of Hermes' scarves and a stunning editorial - "Super-Graphics" shot by Chris Nicholls and styled by Zeina Esmail.

Happy May...I know, its only April 04, but this is magazine-world....

*see-Donna-then, in my -post: CANADIAN DESIGNERS, BERNARD MCGEE AND SHELLEY WICKABROD / CLOTHESLINES


ARTHUR MENDONCA - http://arthurmendonca.ca/
COMRAGS- http://www.comrags.com/
CHRISTINE LINGERIE - http://www.christinelingerie.com
BODYBAG BY JUDE - http://www.bodybagbyjude.com/en/ 
PEDRAM KARIMI - http://pedramkarimi.com/
SNEHA VARMA - http://snehavarma.com/
ELIZA FAULKNER - http://elizafaulkner.com/
BETH RICHARDS - http://bethrichards.com/about.php
LUCIAN MATIS - http://www.lucianmatis.com/







CLOTHESLINES


I love what I am doing here at “CLOTHINGCANADAFASHION”. I get to promote Canadians and Canada! I get to do a lot of interesting research to do so, and, I get to write about my findings.  On occasion I get to write about someone or something I know firsthand. Bonus!

BERNARD MCGEE AND SHELLEY WICKABROD / CLOTHESLINES.


I was in first-year-fashion at Ryerson (then Polytechnic) in the fall-of-1979. There were tickets available for a show. I had no idea who “CLOTHESLINES” was, but I said yes to the ticket and went.  A pair-of-my-professors was present, big room, big crowd, big catwalk; yeah, yeah, the lights dimmed and the music started (so young, so jaded!).

The runway was stormed by the most amazing Canadian models, 3 to 5 at a time, larger than life, in clothes that had me fully hang-jawed through their complete ramping. I was so overcome, I was actually in tears. I had never witnessed such a spectacle. This was The-Paris-London-France-High-Fashion-World right here in Toronto. As a student I thought I would have to leave Canada to be a part of such a world, and  now I discovered it was right here in Canada as well, and it was amazing. Broad-shouldered-sportswear, cut with geometric-and-uniform-precision. Gala-gowns, not-fussy-but-fantastic, they filled the runway with a certain glamour and an attitude. It turned out my-in-class-giveaway was a winning ticket and the prize was heart-pounding-inspiration.

I was hooked. I was excited by their ads in the-then-new-and-only-seasonal Toronto Life Fashion magazine. I ventured past my comfort-zone and into their very shiny and new second-floor-50-Bloor-Street-West boutique. BERNARD MCGEE AND SHELLEY WICKABROD were celebrities.

In my-early-designer-days I would encounter Shelley on Queen Street, enough times that we, although I-knew-she-did-not-know-me-but-I-her-way, always nodded a happy hello. Wow. Their charismatic take on fashion boomed throughout the 1980’s, their shows gained in notoriety, their spectacle at the 1988 Festival of Canadian Fashion was one of the very few in a-throng-that-were-lost on an overly-ambitious-catwalk, to not only stand up, but out. Their ads, in a Toronto-Life-Fashion-that-became-more-frequent were always spot-on, always laid out in a precise grid, always with The-Iconic-Donna-Demarco, and the new fashion offerings always had their-very-signature-look. Their politics made headlines, when they decided to shutter-the-shop over the newly imposed GST. Thankfully they reopened it. They “colleagued” with the smart-set of Toronto glamour. They holidayed at “The Breakers” in Newport.

CLOTHESLINES  WINTER 1987
 
I saw and knew people in “The-Clotheslines-Trench”, a Toronto-legend-in-its-own-time, a perfect coat, so perfect that people owned it in multiple. It looked good. It felt good. It was practical. It was massively-shouldered and dramatically-long. The Clotheslines Trench, one-of-those-GREAT-CANADIAN-COATS, had form and fashion and functionality.

CLOTHESLINES FASHION APRIL 1984

At that time I had never actually-met Shelley, and I never saw Bernard, “live”, or alive, he passed-away in 1991. “Clotheslines” was shut.


Gone, but not forgotten. The famous trench was recreated-with-permission by CANADIAN DESIGNER, LINDA LUNDSTROM, who was at the time being widely recognised for her LAPARKA (see blog post) and her take-on-the-trench, and the cherished originals were worn until they were worn out. Fade.

1996, I was the-Chair-of-Fashion-Design-at-the-International-Academy-of-Design-and-Technology. I received a complete resume from Shelley, and a letter of her intention to become an instructor. I couldn’t believe she had thought someone-in-fashion-in-this-city would not have known her by name and reputation, although I would come to know that Ms. Wickabrod never “put-on-airs, nor assumed she was-for-any-reason-beyond-following-protocol, as some in her position might. It was a delight to finally meet her. I without-question took her on as an instructor. She regaled the students with stories of fashion, her dogs, her career, and her Bernard, and in doing so taught them much more than the pattern drafting that was at hand. I don’t think they knew just how lucky they were at the time, although I have heard some recount with a different perspective since. She and I shared time and I too got to hear her tales, and she mine. We seemed to have worked the same mine at some point! I also got to meet, through her most vivid memories, Bernard McGee.

2005, we both left the International Academy at about the same time, I haven’t seen her in several years, but memory is a great thing. Shelley, has since, among other things, written her memoir “Love Affair: Before and After Death”, and I have gone on to write this blog and made a part-time return to teaching.  As I said at the beginning, “On occasion I don’t have to do research as I know the people or the product firsthand. Bonus” In this instance it has been, as well, an honour.



My heartfelt “Thank You” to Shelley and Bernard, Canadian Fashion Stars who continue to shine in my night sky.

Friday, March 22, 2013

WORDS

The excitement of Toronto-Fashion-Week is pretty much over. The shOws have shown. WMCTFW gave us their best, and Dare-to-Wear-Love put CANADIAN PEOPLE in CANADIAN DESIGNERS clothes, off-and-on-the-runway, for an amazing cause and the-last-big-hurrah of the season. AMAZING ALL!
 
.
 
I love fashion and I love Canada. The big events of the past few weeks make me reflect on the-past-and-the-present, mine-and-others. I so want success for CANADIAN DESIGNERS, it's why I write this blog, to try to make sense of this world and show it off for others, especially when its not quite so-in-season. We fall off the radar quickly when the media moves its attention elsewhere. My passion for this topic is endless.
 
      
GLOBE AND MAIL 1987                                 FLARE MAGAZINE APRIL 1987
 
I started on design side of the industry in 1979, I've been a gofer, a famous designer, a behind-the-scenes-technician, a teacher, and a corporate middle man. I've been well-off and on-welfare. Nothing seems to get in my way of being a man-with-a-plan, a-designer-of-some-sort, an artist and an idiot.

I loved being a CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNER, although teaching stole my heart away many years ago...

 GLOBE AND AND MAIL 1987
 
I learned a lot being a designer, and I gleefully pass it on. I make sure to include a solid dose of reality amongst the words I say to my students. I got it then and I get it now. Survival, no matter where-in-the-world the CANADIAN DESIGNER may wish to go, requires cash.

I know my students hear me, they groan whenever I bring up the combination of design-sense-needing-money-sense, which is often. I am so pleased when those out-in-practice-of-the-profession utter the same words. I know students well enough to know they don't think of school as-being-a-part-of-the-real-world and so here I quote from-those-they-do-see-as-real!

From several Canadian designers in one-on-one conversations with "Flare's-Emily-Ramshaw", on being asked to comment on (among several other topics), "advice for people who are starting out or want to break out as a designer: 

From"Flare" magazine's website: http://www.flare.com/  feature; "Morning Coffee" during"WMCTFW" March 2013,

18.03.2013
Kimberley Newport-Mimran / Pink Tartan
"The most important thing is to really learn the technical aspects of it, I think designers, when they first come in, get very caught up in the creativity of it. It is important to be as technically savvy as you are creatively savvy, to be able to pull together a creative garment."

19.03.203
Sid Neigum
."..enter as many competitions as possible and focus on sales..."

20.03.2013
Joe Mimran / Joe Fresh
 "You better love what you do, you better work really.really, super hard, make sure you have a point of view, and make sure your point of view has some relevance to the market place or you’ll never get to express it."


21.03.2013
Sunny Fong / Vawk
"The one thing that I know is that you have to treat it like a business. I love the design process, its amazing and its fulfilling, but in the end I think when you make that sale and get that garment out and someone buys it and its worn and that your designs translate to revenue its important. It keeps the business going and its your design."

Thanks for the shows, Thanks for the talent, and Thanks for the words. I hope my students are listening as well as watching....

KIMBERLEY NEWPORT-MIMRAN - http://pinktartan.com/ca/
SID NEIGUM - http://www.sidneigum.com/
JOE MIMRAN / JOE FRESH - http://www.joefresh.com/
SUNNY FONG / VAWK - http://vawk.ca/
FLARE - http://www.flare.com/

CANADIANS ABROAD

A CANADIAN ABROAD

No, she is not a CANADIAN DESIGNER ABROAD, but she is a CANADIAN ARTIST ABROAD,
and her thoughts (and those of a few others that she mentions) on identity and being "tied" to being  a Canadian, are of interest to me as I pursue "those creative" who have moved away. Also of note, how those born abroad see us!

an excerpt from:

Meet Canada's ambassador to London's art world
Leah McLaren
Special to The Globe and Mail
PublishedFriday, Mar. 08 2013, 12:40 PM EST

...

"They are images that, as a Canadian abroad, flood me with a deep-in-the-bones sensation of home. “You see, there’s a path through the forest, but it’s not clear where it leads,” she says, pointing to the large drawing of the British Columbian woods above her mantel. But looking at the light streaming through the redwoods, I feel the opposite of lost. I am utterly and gratefully found.

Charsley-Jory is preparing to mount her first Dulwich show, Bright Land: West of the Rockies, South of the Thames. Running from March 26 to May 19, the small exhibition is inspired by the 2011-12 Dulwich blockbuster, Painting Canada: Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven. That earlier exhibit, sponsored by, among others, Canadian art dealer Ash Prakash and this newspaper, proved both a critical and financial success – one that succeeded so thoroughly in its goal of raising the international profile of classic Canadian art that the Dulwich is now taking a more prolonged interest in the artistic legacy of our fair nation. There is another large-scale show of the work of Emily Carr planned for next year, and rumours swirl of a David Milne exhibit in the works after that.

Meanwhile, Charsley-Jory has spent the past several months teaching the art of landscape painting to students at the Dulwich, with an emphasis on the Group of Seven. “Their work is more vigorous than the Impressionists,” she says. “The lack of figures makes the viewer feel swallowed up by the landscape, as if they’re the only person for miles around.” There is nothing folksy or pastoral about these wilderness scenes, which seem “as regular as Kraft Dinner” to Canadians, but are, she points out, still fairly exotic to her British students.
While she says that all of her students have been captivated by the idea of adventure in the rugged, pristine wilderness, some take the notion to laughable extremes. “One woman actually said to me, ‘I didn’t know Canadians had time to paint – I thought they’d be much too busy hiking and canoeing."
...
" We sit in her living room and talk some more about Canadian artists, old and new. In addition to the Group of Seven, she’s a fan of such contemporary artists as Canadian-reared painter Peter Doig, photographer Jeff Wall and sculptor Brian Jungen, all of whom, she points out, “have more international careers and don’t particularly want to be slotted as Canadian.”
Yet Charsley-Jory, whose work is more in a traditional landscape vein, is happy to identify as Canadian. Like an out-of-time voyageur, it has almost become her job to spread the word, and the images, of Canadian landscape art."
BRAVO for spreading the word....

WESTERN CANADA FASHION WEEK EDMONTON


 
http://www.westerncanadafashionweek.com/
 
CANADIAN DESIGNER COLLECTIONS

Fashion is not only in the Toronto/Montreal core! I have lived in Toronto for some 30+ years, but you can't take the Vancouver-born-and-raised-with-the-pride-of-the-west out of me...This Edmonton event includes a cross section of "out-west-designers", from start-up to well-established, from international-ready-to-wear to home-kept-couture. The buzz starts today, and the Collections hit the catwalk next week.

Some notes on a few, from their websites...
 
ANGÉLIQUE CHMIELEWSKI
"Angélique was born and raised in Edmonton, Canada. After pursuing broad studies at the University of Alberta, she moved to New York City to study Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Upon graduation, she began the creation of her inaugural line in the Fall of 2011.
The brand is inspired by human experiences and the idea that clothing can be a vehicle used to express one’s emotions, thoughts and ideals. What we wear everyday is an expression of our unique personalities and contributes to the stories of our lives. We believe everyone has a unique story to tell and our collections seek to provide pieces that help tell those stories. Striving to create original pieces with a focus on quality materials and comfortable fit, we work closely with a few select local manufacturers to help ensure the highest attention to detail.
The ANGÉLIQUE CHMIELEWSKI studio is currently based in New York City."
 
KAADIKI
"Libyan-born, Toronto-bred, HAITHEM ELKADIKI is a source of international style who continues to challenge the norm in Canadian menswear by offering sleek silhouettes, whimsical graphics and a bold colour palette through his label KaaDiki.
Elkadiki is a graduate of the International Academy of Design in Toronto and studied graphic design at the Applied Multimedia Centre in Calgary, where he now resides and creates the KaaDiki collections.
When designing a collection, Elkadiki sources his world travels and experiences, instead of relying on trends. "I do not create fantasy clothes, but they are distinguishable and incomparable to off-the-rack clothing," he says. Past collections have reflected the styling and energy of fashionable cities such as, Milan, New York, and Zurich.
KaaDiki collections focus on mixing traditional men's wear construction techniques with contemporary silhouettes that have a well-proportioned and fashionable appearance. KaaDiki details include patch pockets placed in an unpredictable spot, omitting elements like buttons from a jacket, or whimsical graphics silk screened on t-shirts or button downs.
 
STANLEY CARROLL
"STANLEY CARROLL  launched his first fashion collection in 1983, and has since gone on to design both mens and womenswear collections that have been marketed across North America and Europe. With a design concept based heavily on a creative and distinct look, he has garnered a great deal of critical acclaim and an intensely loyal following. Stanley continues to create clothing that reflects a handcrafted aesthetic, which he sells through national and international popup shops and online marketing campaigns."

GENTLE FAWN / DANNY AND CARLA HOGG
 10 years ago,DANIEL AND CARLA HOGG  founded  GENTLE FAWN; inspired by a rare collection of antique ceramic fawns. Today, the original fawn remains as the symbol of the company’s creative beginnings and its design inspiration.
Gentle Fawn is a young-contemporary and imaginative line of clothing known for its distinctive prints and graphics as well as casual, yet feminine aesthetic. Our style is clean and modern, with details giving each piece of clothing personality. Gentle Fawn brings high-quality design, fabrics and construction to our customers for attainable prices. The collections always reflect a strong sense of fashion and never neglect the charming nature that sets Gentle Fawn apart from the rest.
Gentle Fawn is a fun and energetic brand and this reflects the lives and philosophies of the entire Gentle Fawn team. Over the years, we have maintained a loyal customer base, giving us valuable feedback and allowing us to continue improving our fits, fabrics and designs. Paying close attention to fine details and the quality of all products has ensured that Gentle Fawn delivers nothing but the best.
Gentle Fawn is currently sold in more than 600 multi-brand stores throughout North America. The brand is expanding globally, with current distribution in the UK, Sweden, Korea, and Japan

TURN LEFT ON HOUSTON / DANNY AND CARLA HOGG
Houston Street is known to many in the fashion community as a dividing point through the epicenter for all things design, art, and culture related. It is where old meets new and modern thinking allows for an unconventional left of center approach.
Family Business Distribution introduced its first collection in 2002. Owners – husband and wife team DANNY AND CARLA HOGG have a combined total of 20 years experience in the fashion industry. Together they have assembled a team of the industry’s most talented professionals; bringing you the Fall 2008 launch of Left on Houston.
Left on Houston will build on the success of what Family Business does best; quality design and manufacturing for women’s clothing, now with a new focus on knits.
When you TURN LEFT ON HOUSTON – you are free to go anywhere
 
note: the following are excerpted from the overall weeks other activities...see the website for complete rundown - http://www.westerncanadafashionweek.com/
 
TUESDAY MARCH 26, 2013: Collections: 7pm door-8pm show $25.00
Bano eeMee- Calgary
Trisha Pasnak
LIsa-Marie Sciroli
Patience Soyege
Melany Rowe – Evening and Bridal
WEDNESDAY MARCH 27 2013: Collections: 7pm door-8pm show $25.00
Gypsy Eyes Prairie Skies
Nicole Campre
Gentle Fawn presented by Bamboo Ballroom
LUXX Ready to Wear
Left on Houston- Vancouver presented by Bamboo Ballroom
THURSDAY MARCH 28, 2013: Collections: 7pm door-8pm show $25.00
Kaadiki- Menswear /Womenswear Calgary
Emogene Couture- Calgary
Stanley Carroll- Menswear/ Womenswear
Angelique Chmielewski NYC
WED MARCH 20 2013 Doors 7:pm show $15.00 off site opening show
Malorie Urbanovitch

ANGÉLIQUE CHMIELEWSKI - http://angeliquechmielewski.com/
KAADIKI / HAITHEM ELKADIKI - http://www.kaadiki.com/
STANLEY CARROLL - http://www.stanleycarroll.com/
TURN LEFT ON HOUSTON / DANNY & CARLA HOGG - http://www.leftonhouston.com
WESTERN CANADA FASHION WEEK - http://www.westerncanadafashionweek.com/

Thursday, March 14, 2013

LACERDA, TAI, GALLAGHER AND BALINT

FROM FASHION:

Designers on our radar for Fall 2013