FASHION / MARCH 2013

I look at a lot of magazines. They are the  primary well from which I have fed my 40-something year appetite of  archiving fashion.
I pay very close attention to Canadian magazines, which often look like unfortunate appetizers next to their large-dollar funded competition from elsewhere.
I don't recall being "sated" by either in a long while.
Toronto Life's  March edition of "FASHION" filled me on every page.
The issues overall selections, overseen by Editor-in-chief Bernadette Morra, and with stunning "low-on-text-high-on-imagery" packaging from Art Director Maarten Sluyter, gave Canadian content, not in the usual almost apologetic singled-out format that often accompanies Canadian Designer coverage, but a generous spread across the edition. Delicious....

May I point out...

"Mercedes-Benz Start Up, one-of-eight competitors and the top prize winner, from last October's World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto, Vietnames-born, Montreal-based designer" (that is a mouthfull of an introduction, sorry, couldn't not do it....) "DUY NGUYEN" gets full page, 2-season coverage. "Fashion is a dream." he says. "If there is no dream, it's just clothing." Nice statement Duy.

An ample hit on 'TREND BREAKER / The surreal work of Canadian fashion designer" " RENATA MORALES" gives us a look at the "artist first, a designer second's" very busy world.

Victoria born, Montreal resident HAYLEY GIBSON'S and her label BIRDS OF NORTH AMERICA, Toronto's LEILANNI TODD and her eponymous label LEILANNI and Calgary designer LARA PRESBER are all viewed in the shops section.

The spectacular editorial "THE ARTIST",  photo'd by Moo and styled by George Antonopoulos,  they tell us that "Paint, chalk and a pure white wardrobe inspire model Kirsten Owen to get creative for spring" and show us in some very stunning full pages that "CANADIAN DESIGNERS" "JEREMY LAING", "GRETA CONSTANTINE" and "ARTHUR MENDONCA" mix it up equally with other world status designers chosen. And it's a madly creative, easily visible and digestable piece of work, (which is not always the case of the artistic editorial). BRAVO ALL.

"THE SHIMMERY SHIFT DRESS FROM  ''SARAH STEVENSON'S" SPRING 2013 COLLECTION" A single page show and tell-all of a designer's thought and process. The perfect ending to a perfect read.

I don' usually give such review style coverage, nor do I usally rave on about magazine work, but I couldn't help it, when the feast this magazine dished out was so-well-done!

CANADA / COATS / LINDA LUNDSTROM / LAPARKA

As I said in a previous post, about "THE HUDSON'S BAY BLANKET COAT" 

"more "Canadian" coats to light up the subway platform... "

Let me introduce you to "CANADIAN DESIGNER: LINDA LUNDSTROM" and her "LAPARKA" One of the several designers who regularly included coats among their collections, and created one that has stood strongly through many years. Although Ms. Lundstrom has not been producing the coat herself in the last several years, I often run into people who are still wearing one of the coats she did manufacture. I was inspired to write about them now as I recently met a young woman, who exclaimed it as "...a Name and an amazing coat, double find!"

 "LAPARKA" was a modern day interpretation of the Inuit Parka" and falls in the "HERITAGE GARMENT: OUR OWN" chapter. As  a 35+ year veteran of the Canadian Fashion Industry,a designer of far more than coats, her more complete story will  also be found in the chapter headed "CANADIAN DESIGNER".
 

"LAPARKA CONCEPT: A CELEBRATION OF "NORTHERNESS"
from a Linda Lundstrom press kit, ca 1990
"When Toronto designer Linda Lundstrom first conceived of the idea to market a unique Canadian parka coat, people laughed. They said it'd be boring and unsaleable. But an undaunted Lundstrom forged ahead with the idea. And as the phenomenally succesful LAPARKA collection expands this year and prepares to head into stores for it's fifth season, no one is laughing anymore."
"What's made LAPARKA great is our rich Canadian heritage, insists Lundstrom. "it has to do with a kind of northern vigour, the sense of romance and adventure of northern wilderness. We love the outdoors and we love doing things outside even when it's cold. LAPARKA is a celebration or our northerness."she says..."


The Laparka - 3 coats in one - a blanket-stitched wool duffle, with  zip-off faux fur trimmed sleeves and hood, and a seperate nylon shell that can be worn either over the duffle or on its own. And like the afformentioned "Hudsons Bay Blanket Coat" being a blend of Aboriginal and Settler, this,  Lundstrom's hybird of Inuit and Immigrant.


from "SCANDANAVIAN FORUM"
by Eva Terp
AUTUMN 1989
..."I took my Canadian heritage - I feel very fortunate to be born in Canada - and drew inspiration from the Eskimo, and combined it with my Scandinavian heritage and used the principles of layering against the cold together with the brightly decorated garments. This is where the name comes from, from LAP and PARKA."


"THE LONGEVITY OF LUNDSTROM"
"Canadian coat and dress designer Linda Lundstrom celebrates her 30th anniversary"
by Deborah Fulsang
THE GLOBE AND MAILSATURDAY, MAY 7, 2005
"after 30 years, Linda Lundstrom is going strong, now a $10.5 million label selling to more than 450 independent boutiques in North America and her own three shops. Like Diane von Furstenburg and Donna Karan - her counterparts if you think of designers who are known for a signature approach to dressing - her label is run on a mixture of business and philosophy.
"The label first broke when Lundstrom, who was making dresses in the early eighties, came up with her Northern equivalent to Karan's bodysuit or von Furstenburg's wrap dress: La Parka, the optimistically coloured winter coat that will, no doubt , go down in this country's pop culture history books as the iconic Canadian winter fashion."
"Lundstrom estimates that she has sold 125,000 La Parkas since the aboriginal-inpsired style debuted in 1986."

"NORTHERN ONTARIO CHILDHOOD INSPIRED ABORIGINAL DESIGNS"
from THE TORONTO SUN Jan 22, 1998
"Lundstrom calls herself a clothing designer, not a fashion designer, so you'll find nothing in her collections reminiscent of the international runways. Besides, she isn't interested.
"I've deliberatley isolated myself from what other designers are doing, because I want to stay focused on designing for a woman who wants to give herself permission to be who she is," Lundstrom says. "If a person wants a really structured, tight fitted look, there are lots of other designers they can go to."
"For all her protestations, shes creating real fashion or her designs would't be selling."


Fashion is change. Based on keeping the consumer awash in something new for every season, it seems. However most fashion, and some fashion designers, don't come and go in a season. Some, with slight adjustment, and a nod to the current, together with the strong stance of what made them great in the first place, stay with us over a much longer period. Ms. Lundstrom and her "LAPARKA"  are an examples of such.

"Gift for daughter inspires Linda Lundstrom’s new leather and fur accessories line

By Lauren La Rose, The Canadian Press  October 17, 2012"

 "By the end of 2006, Lundstrom had produced 150,000 of the iconic coats in more than 130 different colours in up to 30 different motifs in collaboration with First Nations artists.

"She filed for bankruptcy protection in 2008, citing significant business reversals in 2007, compounded by a high loonie"

But Linda survived the upset, and is still here!

From her website http://designedbylindalundstrom.com/
"Linda Lundström is proud to announce the launch of L designed by Linda Lundström, a new collection of versatile leather and fur accessories in a range of styles. Each one-of-a-kind piece is handcrafted in Canada from unique pelts and skins.
L designed by Linda Lundström breaks the rules and embraces the natural, raw edges of leather and fur for easy to wear, luxurious fashion."


And the coat is still here...Lundstrom's keen vision of an ultimate "CANADIAN COAT" is now being made by Eleventh Floor Apparel who purchased the rights to the designer’s name, assets and the manufacturing plant of Lundstrom’s former company.
 

 

LINDA LUNDSTROM  http://www.lindalundstromworks.com/ / http://designedbylindalundstrom.com/

 ELEVENTH FLOOR APPAREL  http://eleventhfloorapparel.com/index.php

TORONTO FASHION WEEK

WORLD MASTERCARD TORONTO FASHION WEEK / MARCH 18 - 22
THE SCHEDULE IS IN...although there could still be some exciting additions! It's a great lineup...

I am thrilled to see so many CANADIAN DESIGNERS, who although having already shown in other cities' fashion weeks, are making the trip and bringing it direct to us here in Toronto. Thank You!

They come from the west of us: VAWK / SONNY FONG, from Vancouver and NICOLE CAMPRE from Edmonton.

They come from the east: DUY NGUYEN, MELISSA NEPTON, MACKAGE/ ERAN ELFASSY and ELISA DAHAN, RUDSAK/  EVIK ASATOORIAN , SOIA AND KYO/ ILAN ELFASSY, TRAVIS TADDEO and UNTTLD/ SIMON BELANGER & JOSE MANUEL ST. JACQUES are all coming in from Montreal.

And the south! Returning from NYC, SID NEIGUM,

These welcome visitors are joining with several of Toronto Fashion Week`s returning favourites: ARTHUR MENDONCA, JOE FRESH, LINE ,LUCIAN MATIS, MIZZ/ IZZY CAMILLERI,  PINK TARTAN/ KIMBERLY NEWPORT.

And some of Toronto's newer labels will be joining them: LAURA SIEGEL, CHLOE COMME PARRIS, CHRISTOPHER BATES, EVAN BIDDELL, KLAXON HOWELL, KORHANI HOME, MATHEW GALLAGHER,  PAVONNI/ MIKE DERDERIAN and GIANNI FALCONE and THOMAS BALINT.

With a premier from new label: LACERDA/ VINNY LACERDA,

The world of weddings will be brought in by :PARAZEO COUTURE BRUCE DANG

And, in a category all his own, Toronto by home base and International by long standing reputation, STEPHEN CARAS, will return to the Toronto stage after many years.

Looking most forward to seeing you all there!

ARTHUR MENDONCA http://arthurmendonca.ca/
CHLOE COMME PARRIS http://chloecommeparris.com/
CHRISTOPHER BATES http://christopherbates.com
DUY NGUYEN http://www.duycollection.com/Duy/duy.html
EVAN BIDDELL http://www.evanbiddell.ca/
IZZY CAMILLERI http://www.izzycamilleri.com/
JOE FRESH http://www.joefresh.com/
KLAXON HOWELL http://www.klaxonhowl.com/
LAURA SIEGEL http://www.laurasiegelcollection.com/
KORHANI HOME http://www.korhani.com/
LACERDA
LINE http://lineknitwear.com/
LUCIAN MATIS http://www.lucianmatis.com/
MACKAGE http://www.mackage.com/
MATHEW GALLAGHER http://www.maisonmatthewgallagher.com/
MELISSA NEPTON http://www.melissanepton.com/
NICOLE CAMPRE http://www.nicole-campre.com/
PAREZO COUTURE http://www.paraezo.com/
PINK TARTAN http://pinktartan.com/
PAVONNI http://www.pavonicollection.com/
RUDSAK http://www.rudsak.com/
SID NEIGUM http://www.sidneigum.com/
STEPHEN CARAS http://www.stephancaras.com/
THOMAS BALINT http://www.thomasbalint.com/
TRAVIS TADDEO http://www.travistaddeo.com/12/
UNTTLD http://www.unttld.ca/
VAWK http://vawk.ca/

FLARE "CANADA'S FASHION MAGAZINE" MARCH 2013

Got the March issue of Flare in the mail...
you know it, the one that call's itself  "CANADA'S FASHION MAGAZINE".

And, in I plunged. On my first go through, slow but steady, interested in all things fashion, but particularly Canadian, hence the reading of this magazine, I was confused. Where was the "CANADIAN"  part?

Being the purveyor of the "CANADIAN CLOTHING AND FASHION WORLD" that I am, a second go through, and ah yes, 3 pages on "LORI-ANNE KRAUSEWITZ"  maker of "statement headpieces". Nice. Which tied in well to the other "CANADIAN DESIGNER" content  which I found while reading the small print,  Flare used "GRETA CONSTANTINE'S" headresses to decorate a layout of "International" designers clothes. Sad they could not use "The Greta's clothes as well..."

On a third very slow and scouring check, a skirt from "PINK TARTAN" and a shot of an "ARTHUR MENDONCA" jacket. "CANADA'S FASHION MAGAZINE" left me curious as to where might the assumed Canadian content be...

Curiosity prevailed...and so I "counted" my way through...

the March 2013 issue contains
178 full pages total,
98 of which are full page ads,
77 of the ads are from International sources,
8 ads are from Flare themselves, and
3 ads are from Canadian Companies, (thanks Melanie Lyne and Smart Set (oh, with a pull-out)).

Editorial content wise, Miranda Purves, in her Editor's Letter, goes on at length about her new fashion muse, Barbara, "a mysterious blond" from an German film playing at TIFF.

In the personalities department, the issue hits us with a glossy 2-pager of a write up about stylesetters and French sisters, Poppy and Cara Delevingne, and on other pages; Hannah Bronfman of Canadian lineage, but New York residency and pedigree, the always lovely, born in the USA, Actress and Author, Julianne Moore and London born, Masschusett's-bred West African Taiye Selasi. International, and fascinating but were there no Canadians they could talk to? They do manage the writer and donut maker Leanne Shapton, at least Ontario born, but, New York based.

The cover and 10 pages feature the latter day "look and attitude" dopelganger of Avril Lavigne, the American model,  "Charlotte Free".  In the other multi paged fashion editorial spreads, other than the afformentioned "ARTHUR MENDONCA" jacket, there is nothing Canadian.

About 50% of the magazine as you can see is advertising, which is pretty much on par with most these days.

With approximatley 90% of the ads being of international origin, I can see that the international content would be of about the same percentage.

Yes, the magazine itself is a Canadian Product. Great. But what they are saying is already being said elsewhere. I can and do read American Vogue for American coverage, which they do wonderfully and they throw in just about as much Canadian content as Flare does. Other International glossies cover the Internationals quite well, and the Canadian designer is being mixed into their editorial pages right along with all the others .

I have a subscription, and I will continue to read Flare, as I have for years, I have seen that some issues have more than this particular one, and will hope to see more again. And if this sounds like a negative rant soley against Flare and its moniker, it is not. My real curiousity lay with the CANADIAN DESIGNERS, MANUFACTURERS, BUYERS AND SELLERS OF FASHION...I suspect there would be more Canadian content if there were more advertising dollars from them.

TOM D'AURIA, "CANADIAN DESIGNER" said
"Canada is becoming international. It's just a matter of time. We're a young country. We're just starting to get recognized."

But please note, he said this in an article, by BERNADETTE MORRA, writing in the Toronto Star, on August 6, 1987.

Its almost 30 years later people....a little help from home would surely go a long way.

DARE TO WEAR LOVE 4

Montreal's Fashion Week is over.
Ottawa Fashion Week has come to an end.
Aching for Toronto Fashion Week, and can't hold on?
Here's some help!!
 
From the loving hands of "CHRIS TYRELL" and "JIM SEARLE" of "HOAX COUTURE", the annual (since 2009) mega event that begins it's campaign this week...

 

"DARE TO WEAR LOVE"

 

"DARE TO WEAR LOVE" celebrates the talents and commitment to social justice of Canada’s fashion design community and performing artists and raises funds and awareness for the "STEPHEN LEWIS FOUNDATION"  using the Power of Fashion for Good."*
 
"The Stephen Lewis Foundation puts money directly into the hands of grassroots organizations in Africa that are turning the tide on the AIDS pandemic in ways that are innovative, sophisticated and effective."*  

And this year, Chris and Jim have come up with a great add-on, the "WEAR CANADIAN" challenge:  http://www.daretowearlove.com/challenge.html .  
If you missed entering the challenge, don't worry, you can still follow along : facebook.com/daretowearlove

And remember, the challenge is only the beginning of the campaign, next up, the Gala!
 
"The DARE TO WEAR LOVE GALA is a fashion runway event like no other, the highlight of both the Dare to Wear Love campaign and Toronto Fashion Week. Event founders Chris Tyrell and Jim Searle of Toronto-based Hoax Couture invite 25 top Canadian fashion designers to participate. Each is given six yards of African fabric from which to produce a one-of-a-kind ensemble, and the resulting creations are modelled at the gala by supermodels, dancers, musicians, and other celebrities, as well as winners of the Dare to Wear Love Challenge. The Gala raises funds to support the Stephen Lewis Foundation in its fight to turn the tide of AIDS in Africa."*

*DARE TO WEAR LOVE  http://www.daretowearlove.com/
 THE STEPHEN LEWIS FOUNDATION  http://www.stephenlewisfoundation.org/
 
This year's event will take place on March 22, 2013. Tickets will go on sale soon!
The designers who will be showing their love on the catwalk have already begun their work...in the past these "CANADIAN FASHION DESIGNERS" have shown at the Gala:
 
PAUL HARDY  http://paulhardydesign.com/#/541597/Biography 
SUSAN DICKS  http://susandicks.com/
SHKANK INC/ ROD PHILLPOTT  http://www.rodphilpott.com/
HOAX COUTURE/ CHRIS TYRELL AND JIM SEARLE  http://hoaxcouture.com/
GRETA CONSTANTINE/ KIRK PICKERSGILL AND STEPHEN WONG http://www.gretaconstantine.com/
LINDA LUNDSTROM  http://www.lundstrom.ca/
MERCY/ JENNIFER HALCHUK AND RICHARD LYLE http://mercystudio.com/
PEACH BERSERK/ KINGY CARPENTER 
http://www.peachberserk.com/wordpress/
LIDA BADAY http://www.lidabaday.com/
INES DI SANTO http://inesdisanto.com/
DAMZELS IN THIS DRESS/ RORY LINDO AND KELLY FREEMAN http://damzels.com/about/about-damzels/
FASHION CRIMES/ PAM CHORLEY http://fashioncrimes.ca/
MARTY ROTMAN http://www.facebook.com/marty.rotman
JASON MEYERS http://www.jasonmeyers.net/
IZZY CAMILLERI www.izzycamilleri.com/
FARLEY CHATTO http://www.farleychatto.com/
DAVID DIXON  http://www.daviddixon.ca/
BRIAN BAILEY www.brianbaileydesign.com/
AVIOANNI/ AILEEN NG  www.facebook.com/pages/Avioanni/
ADRIAN WU http://www.adrianwu.com/
ASHTIANI http://www.ashtiani.co.uk/
MACKAGE http://www.mackage.com/
SHELLI OH http://www.shellioh.com/
LAZYPANTS https://twitter.com/thatslazy



 
 
 

 

 
 
 

TORONTO FASHION WEEK

Following up from yesterdays "FASHION WEEK DATES" post...
Today, IMG Canada has quietly released the dates for Toronto Fashion Week.
I found it on "Twitter", thanks to "FLARE" magazines tweet.
Still can not find a web presence. Anyway, the dates are:

Monday, March 18 until Friday, March 22,
but we will have to wait until next week to find out who is showing when, as the "first round scheduling will not appear until the 11th.
And although this may sound like a negative rant, it ends with a positive spin, so please follow me through...

MEET THE PRESS, or not...
The last of the "Big Four" fashion weeks is in Paris, and will be showing from March 4-6, 2013.
LA fashion week is March 9-17 (that's a long week!)
I'd say it's a little late to get the world press here.
The "big guns" will have been booked from Feb.7 with NYC, through Mar 6 with Paris, and will not likely pack their bags again to run to Toronto the following week.
Those still travelling and booked for LA. and are hardly likely to change their bookings at this point. We might have had a shot had the dates been released along with everyone elses. Sad that the only date give up until today was listed as March 13....

Hopefully the Canadian press will not be too exhausted to come out for it.
Hopefully the future seasons will be announced sooner...

I have said it before, and I know not everyone likes to hear it, but I am seeing excellent results from those individuals who are doing it, and  "showing it abroad"....take the money and go to New York Fashion Week, or London Fashion Week, or Paris Fashion Week. The "big guns" from the press are there. The buyers are there. It is not selling out, you can still be a "CANADIAN DESIGNER".

A short list of who's already out there: "ERDEM by ERDEM MORIAGLU", "CALLA by CALLA HAYNES", "MARK FAST", "JEREMY LAING", "D SQUARED BY DAN AND DEAN CATEN" "RAD by RAD HOURANI" and they are showing and getting world coverage, and selling clothes.

"THE JAPANESE INVASION" of Paris, in the eighties, by Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, etc. opened the world's eyes to what was already being shown in Japan.

"Dirk Bikkembergs", "Anne Demuelemeester","Martin Margiella", "Walter Van Beirendonck", Dries Van Noten", Dirk Van Saene" and Marina Yee" gained world recognition by becoming the "BELGIAN SIX", and going together to Paris as a team. It brought them world attention and opened our eyes to other Belgians as well.

So why not a "CANADIAN DESIGNER" team?

I am not saying designers should not still show here in Canada, it would not hurt to keep a vocabulary of our own, but if world focus is what Canadians want,  then go to where the world is already looking. And then, hopefully, they will broaden their vision to include Canada, and more Canadians, as people to be watched.

FASHION WEEK(S)

AND ANOTHER EXCITING SEASON HAS BEGUN...

In  Paris the "Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers and Créateurs de Mode" presented Spring 2013 Jan. 21-24, 2013, heralding the coming of the "Ready-to- Wear" Collections being shown internationally for Fall/Winter 2013/2014.

Checking my dates, I hit the website "Fashion Week Dates"
"MONTREAL FASHION WEEK" is on the list, from FEB. 4-7, (see previous post). Watch their website during the week for a closer look at some of the "CANADIAN DESIGNERS" being showcased.
The Montreal show overlaps with New York Fashion Week Feb. 7-14, (New York, the first of the "BIG FOUR' (New York, London, Milan and Paris (in order of presentation)) to parade on the catwalks. The Ukraine and LA and Tokyo follow fast behind.

I know there are other Canadian shows although none are mentioned on the "Fashion Week Dates" website.

So, a little searching on my own.
Being a Torontonian, I looked first for "TORONTO FASHION WEEK".
Onto the IMG* website and where I found nothing.  hmmm
Next, to the World Master Card website (the previous season's sponsor) where I found the listings for last season's shows. hmmm again
Last, the Tourism Toronto website, with a listing for March 13 TBA.
Pathetic! We have no viable listing. This is not how we will get people to Toronto to see what is going on here. I've an e-mail into IMG to see what I can find, they were listed as the contact for last season's show. Ooh, its bounced back...pathetic, again!
So, who knows? Hopefully the designers that are showing know? Perhaps they can say something...
Please let me know so that I can pass it on.

Onto "VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK", where with a click of a button, I found the complete listing for MARCH 19-24. Bravo!
Our Nations Capitol, and another click, "OTTAWA FASHION WEEK",  FEB. 8-10. Kudos!
No trouble finding "WESTERN CANADA FASHION WEEK" in EDMONTON, MARCH 21-28. Yeah!

So what is up with Toronto?

Hello, Toronto?

An excerpt:
"IMG buys Toronto Fashion Week"
By Kate Kennedy,QMI Agency
First posted: Thursday, August 09, 2012 The Toronto Sun

"IMG Canada, part of sports and media giant IMG Worldwide, will now produce the week in conjunction with IMG Fashion, which engineers impressive parades in London, Berlin, Milan, and others. Perhaps most notable week IMG Fashion puts on is Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York.

What will that mean for Canada? The possibility of more press, for starters. Could there be incentives for journalists to attend both weeks? Could weeks be scheduled accordingly? Each year it seems more New Yorkers are realizing Toronto’s central Billy Bishop airport is but a short hop.
As of the Spring 2013 shows held in October of 2012, they were still teamed with World Master Card."...


What will that mean for Canada? I'd say, short term, we've got an answer and it is not a positive one, long term, let's hope for more. Toronto Fashion Week's history is the story of a long bumpy ride, and it seems time it got settled, so that progress could be made.

and please, if I have missed something let me know...

MONTREAL FASHION WEEK  http://montrealfashionweek.ca/
OTTAWA FASHION WEEK  http://eng.ottawafashionweek.ca/
TORONTO FASHION WEEK
VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK  http://vanfashionweek.com/
WESTERN CANADA FASHION WEEK  http://www.westerncanadafashionweek.com/
IMG  http://www.imgworld.com/home.aspx
FASHION WEEK DATES  http://fashionweekdates.com/world-fashion-week-dates-schedule.html

MONTREAL FASHION WEEK FALL 2013

Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Dusseldorf and now, Montreal - February 4 to 7, 2013 - the 24th Montreal Fashion Week. Yes, it started today! Over 30 Canadian and International designers will unveil their Fall/Winter 2013 collections. Produced by Groupe Sensation Mode in partnership with P&G Beauty & Grooming.

Among those on the list are a few names that have been highly visible for several years, and some newer, and with the Telio show, with entries from across Canada in the student competition, some making their first trip down a major catwalk. Good luck to all!

You can get a brief look at all the participating designers on the "MONTREAL FASHION WEEK" website. I will be sifting through my archives and will bring you some further details on two, (each picked for being in business more than fifteen years) Tuesday,"NADYA TOTO" and Wednesday, "HARRICANA PAR MARIOUCHE"!

MONTREAL FASHION WEEK  http://montrealfashionweek.ca/index.php?lang=en

ANNIE 50 http://www.annie50.com/ BANG COUTURE www.bangcouture.com by THOMAS http://bythomas.ws/ COKLUCH / http://www.cokluch.com/ COPIOUS http://www.copiouscouture.com/ HARRICANA http://www.harricana.qc.ca/ ISABELLE ELIE http://www.isabelleelie.com/ JENNIFER GLASGOW http://www.jenniferglasgowdesign.com/ LUKOW MARION http://www.lautrecouture.com/ MATIER NOIR http://www.matierenoirestudio.com/ MARILYNE BARIL http://marilynebaril.com/ MARTIN LIM http://www.martin-lim.com/ MELISSA NEPTON http://www.melissanepton.com/ MELOW http://www.melowparmelissabolduc.com/ NADYA TOTO http://www.nadyatoto.com/ NISSE http://www.n-isse.com/ PEDRAM KARIMI http://pedramkarimi.com/ RACHEL F http://www.rachelf.ca/ RACHEL SIN http://www.rachelsin.com/ RALPH LEROY http://www.ralphleroy.com/ RUSH COUTURE http://www.rushcouture.com/ SYMBIOSE BY HINDA A http://www.symbiosebyhindaa.com/ TELIO TEXTILES http://www.telio.com/ VOYOU http://www.voyou.ca/

THE HUDSONS' BAY BLANKET COAT

A STRIPE RUNS THROUGH IT...

 
Standing on the Toronto subway platform during the winter,
a sea of dark coats.
What if they were in colours and/or striped, to lighten these dark days of winter?
 
An article from VOGUE was my leaping off point...
 
 "THE AMERICAN WAY"
American Vogue January  2013
 
"Denim-which runs like a blue thread through our fashion history- returns on a sweeping scale..."
 
 
This rang bells, the pant invented for the miners of the 1800's gold rush, the coat from the 1700's fur boom...
 
Follow my path:
 
denim - de nim - de nime - of nime - nime, france - cloth made in the city of Nime, France
 
jean - gen - genoa - a pant from Genoa, Italy
 
Put them together under the auspices of one Mr Levi Strauss,  add a handful of copper rivets, get your patent in before your competitor, and 100+ years later, a pant designed for function, worn by miners. Now recognized in American Vogue, the jean and its fabric, thought of as  American originals, and worn the world over as fashion!
 
So, following a similar path:
a striped blanket given in trade for beaver skins
a blanket of British origin,
the seals trapped and their skins tanned by the Aboriginal,
who wrapped the blanket for warmth (as they did with animal skins).
And in combination with the British and the French settlers,
cut the blanket for easier wearablity and made it into a wrapped version of the European cloth coat, "THE CAPOTE".


Indian_Wigwam_in_Lower_Canada_(1848_)_Cornelius_Krieghoff.jpg
 
And today known  "THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY BLANKET COAT"
Like Mr Strauss' "jean" it has stood the test of time.
It's green, red, yellow and black stripes running through our  "CANADIAN FASHION HISTORY".
Historians and fashion writers have pointed it out.
The Hudson's Bay Company has worked with Canadian designers in many years to update it, and they still sell, although primarily to tourists I am thinking, as they are quite absent on the subway platform.

 
Designers from other countries have borrowed it's cut and fabric and put them on the catwalk.

John Bartlett NY Winter 2012

 
So don't let another winter go by in the dark...
See them and recognize them not only as "OUR OWN: HERITAGE GARMENTS" but fashion, and use the cloth and the stripes and make a myriad of practical products into fashion, and wear them here in Canada  as well as abroad!

 
OPEN THOSE EYES FOLKS, STAND UP PROUDLY, AND SAY IT'S "CANADIAN"!
 

For a more detailed history, let me point you in the direction of:
 
Jonathon Walford's Blog
http://kickshawproductions.com/blog/?p=479
 
and to see just what else those stripes can colour,

Wendy Morris on "Pinterest"
http://pinterest.com/oakhilz/hudson-bay-iconic/
 
and for a complete overview of all the above, the company responsible for the blanket...

The Hudson's Bay Company
http://www.hbcheritage.ca/hbcheritage/history/blanket/outerwear/
 
Coming in the next blog, more "Canadian" coats to light up the subway platform...